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The Brass Onion: Intentional Detail, Incredible Food

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My latest Cravings experience took me back to my beloved old stomping grounds, Overland Park. I couldn’t wait to experience The Brass Onion, a well-hyped restaurant concept in the heart of Prairiefire Entertainment District. The Brass Onion is owned and operated by the Brancato family, also of Brancato’s Catering and Harvey’s at Union Station. “We saw a need for a local restaurant that focuses on quality food—something that’s approachable and comfortable,” owner Andrew Brancato said. Centrally located with a modern American menu featuring low country flair and traditional family favorites, The Brass Onion impressed from the moment I stepped inside.

A well-lit interior is accented with hints of modern brass furnishings, art deco-inspired tile and statement-making art that sparks conversation. Large televisions project Chiefs highlights while customers gather for the reputable happy hour. Adjacent to the indoor space sits a gorgeous patio illuminated by string lights and a sinking sunset. Andrew described the adjustments made to the venue just before it opened in 2018. Every facet of the restaurant was well thought out and intentional to perfect the dining experience.

Similar to the ambience, the cocktail menu is welcoming and lively. General Manager Tim Farrimond recommends the Barrel Program, a process in which the cocktails are precisely crafted and aged for a minimum of 40 days in oak barrels for optimal flavor. “The process itself takes a lot of the heat, or alcoholic burn, off the cocktail. It really brings forward the flavors of the original ingredients,” Tim said. “We’ve got the recipes down to a science.” Tim’s personal recommendation? The Winter in New York, featuring house-infused citrus vodka, a cranberry-orange syrup and lime.

Corresponding with meticulous cocktail creation, The Brass Onion only serves the freshest, highest-quality ingredients available. “Doing things the right way is a lot of hard work, but we don’t know any other way,” Chef Chris Rohde said. “We source our ingredients fresh and we’re 100 percent scratch from the front door to the back door.” Chef Chris ensures quality with frequent calls to his renowned fishmongers and meat suppliers. “There are a lot of processes and steps to the way we do things. Our fried chicken is the backbone of the restaurant and we put a 16-hour brine on it. It’s a lot of work, but when you taste it, it’s hands down the best.” 

The dinner menu offers an option for everyone, from the infamous Mr. B’s Fried Chicken and Double Cut Iowa Pork Chop to an array of light, fresh salads and even Jambalaya Pasta. Chef Chris recommended the Forno Cedar Plank Salmon, a fan favorite. “We use a sustainable, wild-raised Norwegian salmon. The way I cook it and cut it makes it special, too.” Chef Chris has mastered the technique, searing a hunk of the fish with herbed oil to perfect the outside and evenly cook the inside. “It’s really untouchable,” he assured.

As carefully as it was cooked, the salmon was plated beautifully, good enough to Instagram, almost too good to eat. Paired with 17 vibrant vegetables and Farro ancient grains, the salmon basks in a creamy cucumber-dill cream. A kale-pesto-filled roasted tomato accompanies the dish, covering every color and flavor you could dream of. Chef Chris wasn’t overselling when he called this dish a “game changer.” It’s as if you can taste the Brancato family’s secret to success, as well as Chef Chris’ unmatched thought and care, peppered into each aspect of your meal. “For people who truly appreciate food, the menu will translate.” 

The Brass Onion is an innovative venue that balances the excitement of a night out with the comfort of a family environment, just the place for any occasion. “We grew up in Overland Park, so it feels like we can really attest to this community and what they want out of restaurant,” Andrew said. I can confirm; The Brass Onion presents specialty pours, high-quality plates and a truly unparalleled dining experience.

Find The Brass Onion at 5501 W 135th Street, Overland Park, in Prairiefire. Call 913-851-5940 or visit thebrassonion.com for menu previews.

Written by: Meg Dieter

Cravings writer Meg Dieter is a Kansas City transplant from Cleveland, Ohio. She’s a wife, dog mom, foodie and social media coordinator. Meg spends her weekends at Arrowhead Stadium, River Market and local animal shelters. Her life motto: count the memories, not the calories.