Room 39: Comfort Food with Flair

The menus at Room 39 contain a lot of good choices. Some are typical finds at many area establishments, but I like to call them “typical with a twist” at Room 39. Everything here is fresh and locally sourced. It’s a quaint little restaurant that offers breakfast, lunch and dinner.

The food…it’s a farm to table restaurant with a great selection. Where to start? Breakfast is the appropriate thing to compliment them on first. The menu changes seasonally, but they always have a quiche and frittata option that’s made with seasonal vegetables. There are traditional offerings such as biscuits and gravy and waffles. Or you can go fancy and get the Artichoke Toast, a thick spread of artichoke spread on thick-sliced ciabatta bread topped with arugula and two poached eggs. My two favorite items, though, are the breakfast tostada with house-made chorizo and stewed black beans and the frittata. Both are huge portions at an affordable price and you likely will have leftovers for later. Don’t forget the fresh-squeezed orange juice, a mimosa or the Arabica bean coffee roasted by the Broadway Roasting Company. A bottomless cup is available!

Speaking of cups, you’ll love the atmosphere at the Mission Farms location. It has recently been updated to reflect the personalities of owners Ted and Jackie Habiger. Ted is a lover of baseball, and Jackie is a horse lover. There are many vintage equestrian medals displayed in a cabinet inside the front door. It’s also a nod to the Saddle and Sirloin Club, which used to call the land where Mission Farms now sits its home. Room 39 was one of the original tenants of Mission Farms, and has been open for eight years now. The original location off 39th Street has been open for 11 years. But back to the cups. The large farmhouse-style table in the middle of the restaurant seats 12 people. But they found it to be a bit short. So an observant eye will catch that the four corners of the table are propped up on white coffee cups. Touches like this give character to this restaurant, along with the fresh flowers on each table and the friendly camaraderie of the staff.

A winter lunch at Room 39 is a great outing with a coworker or to catch up with an old friend. The soup offering changes regularly and it’s always something unique. The day I visited they had creamy roasted cauliflower soup and green chicken chili with tomatillos. Equally satisfying, and to warm you from the inside out, is the hot turkey sandwich served with Havarti cheese, a thick mound of sliced turkey and a horseradish aioli for a bit of kick. It’s adorned with red and green hot peppers for decoration (which can easily be picked off if you don’t want the spice) and a heap of house-made French fries. A number of salad options are also available at lunch in addition to a traditional beef burger and a veggie burger.

Parking used to be a bit tricky at busy dining times at Mission Farms, but that has changed since a large parking garage was erected onsite. Reservations are not required, but are recommended for dinner, especially for weekend diners. The dinner menu isn’t large, but it has something for everyone. Owner Ted Habiger has oversight of the menu, but gives creative freedom to his chefs. At the Mission Farms location, Chef Spencer Wohlford is young by chef standards, but he certainly knows what he is doing. The infusion of flavors in each dish is dynamic, and the presentation is breathtaking.

The cioppino is served with Colorado bass, smoked littleneck clams and PEI mussels in a bowl of sauce with a huge piece of grilled ciabatta bread. The bass is provided by a farm in Colorado that raises their fish in pure Colorado mountain run-off water near Alamosa and the San Luis Valley. Also, since they’re from Colorado, it’s about as local and fresh a fish as you can get here in the Midwest in the winter.

The dish that Room 39 has always been known for, though, is their scallops. The blend of flavors in this dish is perfection. Three large sea scallops are seared with local apples, parsnips and sautéed farmer greens with a sherry vinaigrette and pistachio brown butter. If you’re a seafood lover, this is a standout dish that must be tried.

Vegetarians will appreciate the cauliflower steak option; carnivores can’t go wrong with the eight-ounce vintage premium filet or Campo Lindo Farm roasted chicken. All dishes are served with sides, but additional side items can be added.

Desserts change seasonally. But winter usually offers an apple crisp or their goat cheese beignets. Both are a bit of heaven and will leave your tummy satisfied without being overly rich to the palate.

Room 39 is so cozy and homey. It’s a really great atmosphere with a neighborhood feel. The food is very comforting, but also has some flair and uniqueness to traditional dishes. And a recent addition is the Happy Hour, featuring creatively crafted libations from fab bartender James Sanders. If you haven’t visited for a while, you need to get back. First-time guests will easily find a new favorite. HLM

Visit Room 39 Midtown at 1719 W 39th St. in Kansas City, MO, 816-753-3939, Monday through Saturday; 7:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m., or Mission Farms, 10561 Mission Road, Leawood, Kansas, 913-648-7639 , Monday through Saturday, 8:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. and Sunday, 9:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. Happy Hour is Monday through Friday; 5:00 to 6:00 p.m. Check the website at rm39.com for daily menus at both locations.